A seven-day trip in Madagascar

We meet at 6.30 am in our premises on Madirokely beach for an early breakfast. Then we embark on a dhow or a Sakalava pirogue, sailing toward an only-accessible-by-sea land.
After a 2hour quiet navigation, we reach the small Ankazoberavina Island for a stopover. We will swim, snorkel; discover a wild yet friendly and colorful amazing subaquatic word. A short crossing and we reach Anjiabe; a 2 miles beach with extraordinary low tides, lined by a semi-abandoned coconut plantation. It is a good bivouac spot. After an aperitif -“l’apero” in French- it’s time for a nice seafood lunch followed by siesta, swimming… or for the most courageous, a walk to meet and observe the numerous bird species, mostly endemic to Madagascar Then, again l’apero for sunset followed by dinner and… sweet dreams…

We leave early as a 3 hour crossing is awaiting us. We sail along a timbered coast, dive and swim on the way. The dive-spot is really different from yesterday. Then, we keep going to Antambao, using depending on the wind, either the engine or the sail. It is a channel inaccessible at first sight, for it is at low tide, closed by sandbanks. The place is amazingly poetic. Our camp has taken place amongst coconut trees, on a sand promontory by a lough. Nearby is the forest and just behind us, a swamp hosting many birds as the Hairy Heron, the Green Pigeon, the wild guinea fowl and a few endemic species. It is a great watching-bird spot.
Two sea-arms run into the mangrove, zigzagging toward the forest and its vastness. We enjoy the rest of the day swimming, strolling around the nearby village. And it is again apèro time… then comes dinner, in the light of hurricane-lamps under the stars.

Everyone gets up at his/her own pace apart for the courageous who likes to observe the funny “pintade mythrée” in its morning perambulation. After breakfast the group is selecting the discoveries of the day: the surrounding bush, the nearby river, the village, some can dive, other may go for fishing or just lazing…

As it is determined by the tide the departure to the northern most, island of the Radamas archipelago can be early or late. It is a 1.30h crossing. Nosy Ambariopôtaka is 166m high. It is offering stunning white sanded scenery. We set our camp facing the ocean vastness. Just close by is a small hamlet where a few dhows hulls in progress are resting on a flower bed. André, the traditional Sakalava carpenter, is building them according to secular ways. The place is outlined by a dream lagoon with a piece of primary forest on the opposite side. The activities are divided between scuba-diving, walk around the island, swimming, lazing.

We have an early departure to Nosy Berafia, just 45 MN distant. It is the archipelagos largest island (2500ha). More or less abandoned coffee, pepper, ylang-ylang, chili plantations, overlooked by high trees are covering the island northern part. They are hosting numerous huge bats and many green-pigeons. The air is perfumed; an ancient colonial-style house is completing the quaint, out of the 20s charm of the place. We dive on a new and different spot, using this opportunity to catch our dinner. Walkers will enjoy strolling around this stunning island. The nearby old distillery is also worth visiting.

2 hours crossing before getting to Ambariomena. Along the way, we dive and fish. It is kind of Malagasy fjord, quiet as a lake, lined by small orange sand beaches and dominated by a steep forest furrowed by veins of pink sandstone. This inlet runs deep into a maze of mangroves ending as a river, at the foot of hills covered with primary forest. We set our camp in a lovely village, then, if the tide is favorable, we go up the river on a canoe, or we discover the place, walking around into this colorful scenery where greens and pinks are beautifully dominating. And it is again happy hour before another dinner under the stars. We fall asleep lulled by the gentle sounds of the village.

Departure the morning for the Island of Nosy Iranja (45 min approx.). Two Islands in fact, connected by a white sand bank of 1 km surrounded by two lagoons whose light and blue ones confer on this place a coral environment of dream. Diving in the neighbourhoods and ballade on this language of sand surprisingly white and luminous. When the winds blow, we will ennallerons ourselves… i.e. around 13 hours. Return to the veil carried by the serenity of these magic dugouts.