Example of an 11-day cruise in Madagascar

We embark on a Sakalava dhow or a large traditional sailing pirogue (depending on your choice! ) to discover a region where the sea is the only access route. We meet at 6.45 a.m. at our beachside base for a leisurely breakfast. We leave Nosy Bé for the small island of Ankazoberavina (1h45 easy crossing). Swimming, snorkeling and discovering an incredibly rich and varied underwater world. Then, after a short crossing, we land at Anjiabé, a long 3km beach bordered by a semi-abandoned coconut grove, a site with extraordinary low tides. This is where we bivouac. After an aperitif and a meal of seafood, siesta, swimming and, for those who wish, a walk to observe the many species of birds, most of them endemic to Madagascar. Sunset, aperitif, meal... and good night!

We set off early in the morning for a two- to three-hour crossing along a splendid coastline with a varied, wooded landscape. Along the way, we take a dive at a completely different site from the previous day. Then, under sail or motor, we continue our journey to Amtambao. This is a seemingly inaccessible arm of the sea, blocked by sandbanks at low tide. The poetry of the place is indescribable. We bivouac on the edge of a lagoon on a sandy promontory planted with shrubs and coconut palms. The forest typical of this region is right next to us. Behind, in the background, a marsh where it's easy to observe hairy herons, green pigeons, mantled falculids, wild guinea fowl, teal and Cuvier's rail. From here, two arms of the sea meander through the mangroves towards the vastness of the forest and... crocodiles. In the afternoon, swim or take a stroll around the nearby village. In the evening, aperitif, meal and excellent evening by the light of the storm lamps.

Free rise (for once!) except for those who want to observe the mythical guinea fowl in its morning wanderings. The day is organized according to the spirit and desire of the group: Long walk in the surroundings, river reconnaissance (depending on tide times), visit to another village, diving, fishing, lazing around, etc...

Depending on the tide, we leave early in the morning for the northernmost island of the Radama archipelago (1h3O crossing). Nosy Ambariopôtaka rises to an altitude of 166 metres, creating a whole new landscape. The sand turns white and we bivouac facing the vast ocean of the Mozambique Channel. Nearby, a small hamlet and one or more dhow hulls under construction rest on a bed of pink and white periwinkle. André, the Sakalava carpenter, builds them according to age-old traditions. The whole is bordered by a dreamy lagoon and a patch of primary forest on the opposite side. Scuba diving, hiking and lounging.

After an early start, we head for Nosy Berafia (45min), the largest island in the Radama archipelago (2,500 ha). The southern half is covered with more or less abandoned plantations (coffee, pepper, ylang-ylang, chili pepper), themselves dominated by tall shade trees. Enormous fruit bats by the dozen, green pigeons, intoxicating perfumes, the colonial house of the "commander" of this ex-concession and a large village. Everything to immerse us in the exotic colonial charm of the 1920s. A dive into a very different and rich site. Visit to an old, small bush distillery. Discover this amazing island on foot. Restocking some of our basic foodstuffs.

Embark in the morning for this isolated island, whose name means "easy land" in Malagasy. Often deserted, Antanimora is sometimes inhabited by sea cucumber II divers who, for a few days at a time, give the island a gold-digging atmosphere. Their smiles and hair, bleached by the salty sun of the open sea, speak volumes about their life as nomads of the seas. In this curious atmosphere, we stroll along the filaos (tropical conifers) and climb the grassy slopes, where the sparse aloes and bunches of mango trees place our imagination somewhere between Africa and Mexico... the panorama is grandiose and unsettling. Diving and underwater fishing around the island. Hiking and climbing in the hills.

Sunrise over the grandiose landscape we contemplated yesterday. We organize the morning according to the constraints of the tour: foraging for food, replenishing water supplies, washing clothes, walking, swimming, lounging... In the afternoon, we set off for the village of Ankatafa. Normally we have wind and the trip takes around 2 hours under sail. We arrive in the late afternoon in what appears to be a less idyllic setting. Gone are the sands, replaced by pebbles and mangroves. We camp in the village, slightly set back from the sea. The forest seems absent, but let's trust our guide; we're about to discover the secrets jealously guarded by these austere hills. Aperitif, meal... Good night. Around 6hoo, we set off for a hike in the area. Here, forest and rice paddies stretch for miles between two hills. The Sakalava people of this region are different from their neighbors further north. More reserved, they live in a harsher, less simple world, and the omnipresent immensity that surrounds them has shaped them in the image of the mangroves: supple and humble. The afternoon unfolds according to the people we meet and our desires, because at this stage of our journey, we're really all in this together...

We set sail early to the north, passing the eastern part of the Radama Islands basin. Along the way, we dive at some strange sites with coral resembling sand roses... Depending on the fishing, we set off again later or later in the morning for Tsangazira. The people here grow rice, manioc and corn, and their kindness is once again a breath of hope in this world. The region is mountainous, offering easily accessible and magnificent views of the Radama archipelago.

Morning departure and diving en route (2 or 3-hour crossing). Arrive in late morning at Ambariomena, a sort of tranquil Malagasy fjord like lake fringed by small orange sand beaches, dominated by a steep forest criss-crossed by pinkish sandstone tongues. This arm then plunges deep into a maze of mangroves, ending up as a river at the foot of mountains covered in primary forest. We set up camp in a delightful little village and, depending on the tides, either take a pirogue upstream in the afternoon or stroll on foot through this place where greens and pinks sing loudly in harmony. In the evening, enjoy an aperitif, a meal under the stars and a good night's sleep, lulled by the sounds of the village.

Early start as usual for a day full of surprises. We take a dip along the way to freshen up and grab a bite to eat. We take the opportunity to see what we hadn't seen on the outward journey. The bay that shelters the beautiful village of Marotony ("many personal sacred trees" in the Sakalava language) will hold us for an hour or two, depending on our mood and the tide... We'll eat on the edge of an island with magnificent undersides, just to engrave these marvellous underwater colors a little deeper in our memories. Around 2.00 p.m. we set sail for the thirty kilometers to Nosy Bé. A few delightful hours in the midst of a grandiose landscape... the rustle of the water against the float, the song of the bow... between sky and sea, half bird and half boat, driven by the golden rays of an ever-changing setting sun, we reach Nosy Bé at around 5.00 pm.